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The Dogs – Edinburgh, Scotland

Confit roast duck with broadbeans, on a grated red onion and beetroot salad (Starter/Main £5.45/9.45)
Confit roast duck with broadbeans, on a grated red onion and beetroot salad (Starter/Main £5.45/9.45)

Our first day in Edinburgh entailed basically walking the length of the city to find a jeweller that could fix S’s necklace. Our search led us all through the Old Town where our hotel was, down the Royal Mile, across to the New Town and down Hanover Street. Along the way we passed many a great shop, cafe and restaurant, including the mysteriously named The Dogs, signposted in front of a staircase leading into a terrace house. A dog grooming parlous? A pet shop? Nope – a wonderful, chic restaurant with great, mid-range priced food.

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You walk up some creaky old, dark wooden stairs, accompanied by images of dogs (primarily whippet and greyhound-type dogs) until you reach this bright dining room. Of course, another dog is overlooking your table as you eat your meal. At first we were served but a somewhat incompetent waitress but then – our Scottish uncle appeared. How to describe him? Tall and skinny, almost bony, probably in his 60s, many earrings and a beard, and of course the mandatory thick Scottish accent. The type of guy who looks angry and serious until you ask him what dish you should pick, to which he answers: “Well, since I know you so well, you should probably get the poached pears for dessert.” What a champ, and everyone needs a quirky uncle in their life.

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Game pie with root vegetable, dried fruit, and pastry (£11.95)
Game pie with root vegetable, dried fruit, and pastry (£11.95)

I went for the Confit roast duck with broadbeans, on a grated red onion and beetroot salad (Starter/Main £5.45/9.45) in the Mains size, although I think I would’ve been quite happen with a starter size, leaving room for more dessert. What struck me first was the great colour combination of the dish – red and green, combined with the dark brown of the duck makes the dish seem very rustic, as if prepared in an old kitchen in the farmhouse in the highlands. The flavour combination was excellent as well, as was the fact the duck was shredded – no need to present the duck leg beautifully when you can save your diners the awkward cutting and biting off the bone. Make it easy to eat and you could probably save on washing up by only needing a spoon. Even though it was called a ‘salad’ it was served warm. I would definitely have this dish again.

Game pie with root vegetable, dried fruit, and pastry (£11.95)
Game pie with root vegetable, dried fruit, and pastry (£11.95)

S went for the Game pie with root vegetable, dried fruit, and pastry (£11.95) – you want something wholesome, rustic and ‘country’ when you’re up in Scotland. I love the way the pastry draped all over the ceramic bowl, and what good pastry it was! The filling was very…well…filling. Perhaps this is Scottish ‘dude-food’? Also always good to combine the sweet flavour of fruit with the rich, sometimes over-powering flavour of game meat. Do we even eat much game meat in Australia? I think we should bring it in for the winter months!

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Pears poached in white wine, with vanilla and caramelised rhubarb (£5.95)
Pears poached in white wine, with vanilla and caramelised rhubarb (£5.95)

To finish, S and I shared the Pears poached in white wine, with vanilla and caramelised rhubarb (£5.95). Poached pear is a dessert I find hard to resist, and this seemed to be a bit of a twist on the dish, poached in white wine rather than red. Am I right in thinking it’s usually done with red wine?! Unfortunately the rhubarb was really quite sour and so didn’t really add much to the dish, but the pears were lovely and soft, the vanilla always working wonders on this particular fruit.

Pears poached in white wine, with vanilla and caramelised rhubarb (£5.95)
Pears poached in white wine, with vanilla and caramelised rhubarb (£5.95)

Head to The Dogs if you’re in Edinburgh and looking for good food that doesn’t break your bank account. Maybe book ahead as well – it was rather full on a Tuesday night and the waitress looked annoyed at having walk-ins…There is also such variety on the menu that I’m sure there’s something for everyone!

The Dogs
110 Hanover Street
Edinburgh EH2 1DR
http://thedogsonline.co.uk/

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